Hitler is popular in Nigeria. Being German had to bring out his name at some point. It is one thing people all over the world know about Germany. To me, it is shocking how people think about someone I consider the most terrible and horrifying dictator of the 20th century, who believed in white supremacy, and killed millions of people. Three of my friends here actually told me that they admire him - and when they see my face after telling me this they quickly start to explain how they do not believe in what he believed in (at least!), but that he was a strong leader with an ambition, who was able to elate a people. I have to admit that I am overly sensitive when it comes to this particular part of my country's history. I try not to be, but even in my generation many people still have that sense of collective guilt. I cannot and do not want to understand how anyone can see anything positive in this man, who managed to create a concept of an enemy based on the belief that the Aryan race was supreme to any other. It suprises me over and over again to hear how people who would have been deported, tortured, and killed if they had been alive during the Nazi regime can straight up tell me that he was not only bad. He was. And what he did was a tragedy and a desaster for the human race. The world is a better place without him, and I strongly urge people to stop seeing the positive side of Hitler. There is none.
Different topic: Naira notes are disgusting. They are greasy and dirty and just gross. especially 1000 Naira notes (worth around 5 Euros) are very very used and very trashy. You should watch out when changing money or getting change, so they do not give you the ones that are stapled together in the middle or that do not actually say what they are worth because they are just too crappy, because those ones no ones wants and you usually cannot pay with them. You can try exchanging them at a bank, but going to a bank in Nigeria usually is alot of hassle. It is funny how many notes you carry around on a normal day, because the currency just is not worth much. Today I have 4000 Naira on me (around 20 Euros) to pay for my taxi back, to buy credit for my phone, and to dash the police (or anyone else) in case I have to. If you have to pay a larger sum, lets say at a club or a restaurant, it seems to be a ritual for guys to take out a huge pile of Naira notes (preferrably 500 Naira notes) and then count down the amount that has to be payed, taking their sweet time, and often counting twice. Usually quite a pile of notes is handed over (Just imagine paying a bill of 80 Euros with notes that are worth around 2.50). And guys do enjoy it - it is their time to show how much they are worth. Well, as they are paying for everyone and everything I think they deserve their little moments.
Every day when I come back from work and listen to the radio while in the taxi I notice how people seem to be huge fans of call-in shows, and I have to wonder why. No information is actually ever conveyed, due to desastrous mobile networks. Usually it goes as follows: Moderator: Hello, who is speaking? Caller: "....hello?...o? rihe... ekjgie.." M: "Can you hear me?" C:"Hello?" M:"Hello Madam, what is your opinion on the matter?" C: "jkhfkjhar... okdhnfo... (line breaking)" M:"Please call back! Who is next? Hello?" Caller2: "This is ....sdfje calling from Maitama, I ..gth. .. ......faksjdhauh ... aksdjhfa... (line breaking)" M:"Hello? Can you hear me?" C2:"So.. iadshglksh... laskhjdfoih.. kdejg" M:"Thank you for your opinion!" It is very funny to listen to, but I wonder why this seems to be the most famous evening entertainment on the radio. Well, I m grateful for any sort of entertainment, as mostly there are no lights when I come home, thus I do not have too many options of what to do. I can go bug hunting in the candle light, which is now one of my most favourite activities.
Mittwoch, 30. September 2009
Freitag, 25. September 2009
Come now sister o!
The market is the social focal point in Abuja, I m guessing it is like this all over Nigeria. Whatever you need, you will find it in the market. Getting your toe-nails polished while looking for your dinner, that might still be alive and will be slaughtered right in front of you, or getting your shoes, suitcases, electric devices fixed. Anything is possible. Markets are not only the place to shop, they are the place for social exchange, gossip, for being seen (and showing off). People might spend a whole day in the market, not buying anything.
If you buy something though, you have to bargain. It's part of the deal, and for most people it's part of the fun. There are no fixed prices for anything, everything is pretty much up to your skills. It helps alot if you have an approximate idea of how much things are supposed to cost. And it helps if you are not oyinbo. I m too polite to be able to really bargain hard. People yell over prices and get into little fights about how they never paid that much for a basket of oranges ("Brother, Ramadan is over - no go try rip me off").
Yesterday, one of our office drivers was arrested. Like many people here, he uses his car as a taxi when he goes to work in the morning and makes a few bucks from taking people along. The police stopped him for a traffic offense (I wonder which one, as people drive the way they want to drive anyhow; I didn't even think there were any particular traffic rules), and he must have reacted in the wrong way, so they took him to the police station and put him under arrest. Usually, you get out of that sort of trouble by dashing them, but dashing the police is quite expensive, and if they repeatedly stop you and expect you to pay it definitely is too much money you are going to spend for not actually having done anything. One way of getting out of such situations is knowing the right people (or pretending to know the right people), and casually mention how you could just call Mr. xyz, so he could help resolving the matter.
We got our driver back, he is up and running today again. Our very clever accountant managed to talk the police out of keeping him (they do not really gain anything from that anyhow). He is also the guy who achieved a tax clearance, which is quite a success, because the government has decided to tax the office with retrospective effect for 2006, 2007, and 2008. Taxing retroactively seems the new strategy to counteract the economic recession.
The rule of law is extremely weak. It shows in little details of everyday life and it especially shows in the abuse of police power or random government decisions aimed at enriching themselves. Corruption is rampant, dashing the right people is the (only) way to avoid being harrassed, arrested, or worse. I knew about this before I came here - but seeing it happen so openly every day is still shocking.
If you buy something though, you have to bargain. It's part of the deal, and for most people it's part of the fun. There are no fixed prices for anything, everything is pretty much up to your skills. It helps alot if you have an approximate idea of how much things are supposed to cost. And it helps if you are not oyinbo. I m too polite to be able to really bargain hard. People yell over prices and get into little fights about how they never paid that much for a basket of oranges ("Brother, Ramadan is over - no go try rip me off").
Yesterday, one of our office drivers was arrested. Like many people here, he uses his car as a taxi when he goes to work in the morning and makes a few bucks from taking people along. The police stopped him for a traffic offense (I wonder which one, as people drive the way they want to drive anyhow; I didn't even think there were any particular traffic rules), and he must have reacted in the wrong way, so they took him to the police station and put him under arrest. Usually, you get out of that sort of trouble by dashing them, but dashing the police is quite expensive, and if they repeatedly stop you and expect you to pay it definitely is too much money you are going to spend for not actually having done anything. One way of getting out of such situations is knowing the right people (or pretending to know the right people), and casually mention how you could just call Mr. xyz, so he could help resolving the matter.
We got our driver back, he is up and running today again. Our very clever accountant managed to talk the police out of keeping him (they do not really gain anything from that anyhow). He is also the guy who achieved a tax clearance, which is quite a success, because the government has decided to tax the office with retrospective effect for 2006, 2007, and 2008. Taxing retroactively seems the new strategy to counteract the economic recession.
The rule of law is extremely weak. It shows in little details of everyday life and it especially shows in the abuse of police power or random government decisions aimed at enriching themselves. Corruption is rampant, dashing the right people is the (only) way to avoid being harrassed, arrested, or worse. I knew about this before I came here - but seeing it happen so openly every day is still shocking.
Donnerstag, 24. September 2009
The art of Nigerian timing
People here cannot be on time. Never. It's impossible. They are caught in a vicious cycle of being late and there just is no escape.
Just imagine the simple situation of a guy coming to pick up a girl. In my country, you would just say: "I ll be there at 5 to pick you up", and the girl would most probably be ready to go by then. Things are different here. First of all, people don't really give you a time, they just say "I ll come pick you up later today". Fine. So, because everyone expects the other person to be late, people take their time to not have to wait. It's a guessing game. Or rather, it is like chess. You pick a strategy, with the aim of not being the one waiting for the other person.
When my (girl)friends were picked up by their dates, they would not start getting ready before the guy actually calls to say "I m right outside!". That would be the time for them to get into the shower, start dressing up, putting on make-up. Meaning that it would at least take 30-45 minutes before they would be ready to go, while the guy "is waiting right outside". Well, when a guy tells you he is "right outside" he most probably isn't. Knowing that the girl he wants to pick up will not be ready anyways, he calls from whereever he is to tell you that he is "right outside". Mostly he is not ready either and still at home, or a 20 minutes drive away, but he is trying to make sure that once he gets there he doesn't have to wait for another 30 minutes. A friend of mine told me that I had no idea of what Nigerian girls put them through. I didn't. Now I do. On the other hand, guys aren't that much better. They might make you wait for hours before they finally decide to show up, and it's not a big deal. It's just how it is. Telling someone that you have been waiting for them doesn't really evoke any sort of apology. It's the way things are. Actually, I was told that I should be happy Nigerian time does not compare to Botswanian time. Apparently, as long as someone shows up the same day they are "on time". Here, you "only" wait for a couple of hours. Hmm.
To do justice though, some people do manage to be on time. My taxi driver who gets me to work in the mornings has been on time for two weeks straight now. He hasn't been late ever since, rather he once complained "Madam, 5 minutes past now", because I was the one coming out of the house 5 minutes late. I told him I was adjusting to Nigerian time. No be small thing o!
Just imagine the simple situation of a guy coming to pick up a girl. In my country, you would just say: "I ll be there at 5 to pick you up", and the girl would most probably be ready to go by then. Things are different here. First of all, people don't really give you a time, they just say "I ll come pick you up later today". Fine. So, because everyone expects the other person to be late, people take their time to not have to wait. It's a guessing game. Or rather, it is like chess. You pick a strategy, with the aim of not being the one waiting for the other person.
When my (girl)friends were picked up by their dates, they would not start getting ready before the guy actually calls to say "I m right outside!". That would be the time for them to get into the shower, start dressing up, putting on make-up. Meaning that it would at least take 30-45 minutes before they would be ready to go, while the guy "is waiting right outside". Well, when a guy tells you he is "right outside" he most probably isn't. Knowing that the girl he wants to pick up will not be ready anyways, he calls from whereever he is to tell you that he is "right outside". Mostly he is not ready either and still at home, or a 20 minutes drive away, but he is trying to make sure that once he gets there he doesn't have to wait for another 30 minutes. A friend of mine told me that I had no idea of what Nigerian girls put them through. I didn't. Now I do. On the other hand, guys aren't that much better. They might make you wait for hours before they finally decide to show up, and it's not a big deal. It's just how it is. Telling someone that you have been waiting for them doesn't really evoke any sort of apology. It's the way things are. Actually, I was told that I should be happy Nigerian time does not compare to Botswanian time. Apparently, as long as someone shows up the same day they are "on time". Here, you "only" wait for a couple of hours. Hmm.
To do justice though, some people do manage to be on time. My taxi driver who gets me to work in the mornings has been on time for two weeks straight now. He hasn't been late ever since, rather he once complained "Madam, 5 minutes past now", because I was the one coming out of the house 5 minutes late. I told him I was adjusting to Nigerian time. No be small thing o!
Freitag, 18. September 2009
For fun, for health, for long life
...says my yoghurt. Things, companies, products, just everything has very interesting names and descriptions here. They either somehow refer to God or Jesus, or are in general very poetic ("Spring of Knowledge Academy", "Peace and Unity Driving School", "Tender Years Primary School").
I have had a long weekend, Monday and Tuesday were public holidays, the end of Ramadan. On Friday I went to my colleagues housewarming party, him and his roommate, who works at the German Embassy in Abuja, have a really nice place in Maitama, including a pool, 24hrs. electricity, and warm water from the tab (which now seems like a luxury to me). I have learned that expats are generally very nice to one another, there seems to be a sense of community, which I couldn't quite grasp yet. A very nice German couple drove me home, all the way from Maitama to Gwarinpa, which is a 20 minutes drive, and either them nor me knew the way very well, so we were randomly driving through Abuja, but actually made it to my place in 30 minutes, which isn't all that bad, considering none of us really knew how to get there.
My friends are all leaving now, going back to Uni in England, and I m sure I will miss them quite alot. Not only have they taken really good care of me, but they also felt responsible and watched out for me, which meant protecting me while going clubbing, making sure I wouldn't smile at strangers, because I randomly do and here it's not something you just do, it always seems to be an invitation for more..
Meeting people here is very interesting. Guys tend to tell you the most unbelievable things. Basically, everyone is a pilot and can get you a jump seat to anywhere you wanna go. Or they successfully work for the Government and if there is anything you need or want they will be able to arrange it for you. "Anything you need.." Hmm, I wonder. I have not taken anyone up on that offer, but I might just do it for fun one of these days and then see what happens (I guess nothing will happen and I will hear interesting excuses why they will not be able to do what they promised).
Nigerian men are very generous, even if they don't have much money. A friend of mine really doesn't have anything but when I randomly mentioned that I wanted to buy credit (actually wanting to buy it myself) he just bought me a recharge before I could say anything (even though it was only for 100 Naira, which maybe makes for a 3minutes call, but I still thought it was really nice). When we go out clubbing or to a bar or a restaurant one of our friends always pays for us (meaning: all of us), and it seems to be the most common thing to do. I will come back home totally spoiled with attention and generosity. It's more of a big deal if someone invites you or pays for your drinks in Germany than it is here. It is expected that the guy who takes you out pays for all your expenses. Sometimes it is really hard for me to just accept, because I am used to paying for myself, and only once in a while let someone pay for me. Here, you don't even get a chance to pay for yourself as a girl. It's strange in the beginning, but its also amazingly generous and sweet.
A friend of mine asked what I miss about home, and it was hard to give a good answer to that. There are some things I miss, like just being able to wash my hands without having to fetch water from outside, being able to watch a movie without power going off 20 minutes before the end, or the possibility of crossing the street without the danger of being killed. Those aren't really important things though, I can live without them. I rather miss people, my family, my friends, but more surprisingly, I already know now how much I will miss Nigeria. I will miss the chicken suya, the "oyinbo, oyinbo" on the streets, the warm-hearted and welcoming people here. It's a strange strange feeling that overcomes me once in a while. I m really having a good time here, I m enjoying it, and I m happy I went here against all odds. It was the right decision after all, even though I had to fight for it.
It's funny, how people think about Germans here. Everyone who has a German boss or supervisor tells me how stressed they are because they always have to be on time and work so much to finish things on time, how they have to work efficiently and how Germans are so perfectionist. It's funny to me because when I was growing up in Germany, I always just assumed that's how it is. Spending 3 years in Jacobs partially changed my mind, but being here the contrast and difference in work ethics is just so stark. My colleagues here consider my (very nice, very efficient, very German) boss a tyrant.. He is sort of a work-a-holic, and expects people to get stuff done while they work (typically German and actually very normal to me), but people here think he stresses out way too much. Work really is not the most important thing in people's life, it's just this thing that pays the bills.
Rambling on about work ethics, I only have 3 working days this week, but instead of using them like a proper German I have been writing on this blog. Time to get back to good old German virtues...
I have had a long weekend, Monday and Tuesday were public holidays, the end of Ramadan. On Friday I went to my colleagues housewarming party, him and his roommate, who works at the German Embassy in Abuja, have a really nice place in Maitama, including a pool, 24hrs. electricity, and warm water from the tab (which now seems like a luxury to me). I have learned that expats are generally very nice to one another, there seems to be a sense of community, which I couldn't quite grasp yet. A very nice German couple drove me home, all the way from Maitama to Gwarinpa, which is a 20 minutes drive, and either them nor me knew the way very well, so we were randomly driving through Abuja, but actually made it to my place in 30 minutes, which isn't all that bad, considering none of us really knew how to get there.
My friends are all leaving now, going back to Uni in England, and I m sure I will miss them quite alot. Not only have they taken really good care of me, but they also felt responsible and watched out for me, which meant protecting me while going clubbing, making sure I wouldn't smile at strangers, because I randomly do and here it's not something you just do, it always seems to be an invitation for more..
Meeting people here is very interesting. Guys tend to tell you the most unbelievable things. Basically, everyone is a pilot and can get you a jump seat to anywhere you wanna go. Or they successfully work for the Government and if there is anything you need or want they will be able to arrange it for you. "Anything you need.." Hmm, I wonder. I have not taken anyone up on that offer, but I might just do it for fun one of these days and then see what happens (I guess nothing will happen and I will hear interesting excuses why they will not be able to do what they promised).
Nigerian men are very generous, even if they don't have much money. A friend of mine really doesn't have anything but when I randomly mentioned that I wanted to buy credit (actually wanting to buy it myself) he just bought me a recharge before I could say anything (even though it was only for 100 Naira, which maybe makes for a 3minutes call, but I still thought it was really nice). When we go out clubbing or to a bar or a restaurant one of our friends always pays for us (meaning: all of us), and it seems to be the most common thing to do. I will come back home totally spoiled with attention and generosity. It's more of a big deal if someone invites you or pays for your drinks in Germany than it is here. It is expected that the guy who takes you out pays for all your expenses. Sometimes it is really hard for me to just accept, because I am used to paying for myself, and only once in a while let someone pay for me. Here, you don't even get a chance to pay for yourself as a girl. It's strange in the beginning, but its also amazingly generous and sweet.
A friend of mine asked what I miss about home, and it was hard to give a good answer to that. There are some things I miss, like just being able to wash my hands without having to fetch water from outside, being able to watch a movie without power going off 20 minutes before the end, or the possibility of crossing the street without the danger of being killed. Those aren't really important things though, I can live without them. I rather miss people, my family, my friends, but more surprisingly, I already know now how much I will miss Nigeria. I will miss the chicken suya, the "oyinbo, oyinbo" on the streets, the warm-hearted and welcoming people here. It's a strange strange feeling that overcomes me once in a while. I m really having a good time here, I m enjoying it, and I m happy I went here against all odds. It was the right decision after all, even though I had to fight for it.
It's funny, how people think about Germans here. Everyone who has a German boss or supervisor tells me how stressed they are because they always have to be on time and work so much to finish things on time, how they have to work efficiently and how Germans are so perfectionist. It's funny to me because when I was growing up in Germany, I always just assumed that's how it is. Spending 3 years in Jacobs partially changed my mind, but being here the contrast and difference in work ethics is just so stark. My colleagues here consider my (very nice, very efficient, very German) boss a tyrant.. He is sort of a work-a-holic, and expects people to get stuff done while they work (typically German and actually very normal to me), but people here think he stresses out way too much. Work really is not the most important thing in people's life, it's just this thing that pays the bills.
Rambling on about work ethics, I only have 3 working days this week, but instead of using them like a proper German I have been writing on this blog. Time to get back to good old German virtues...
Donnerstag, 17. September 2009
People, Politics, and Dishwashing detergent
I love going to work in the morning. It's a 30-minutes drive from Gwarinpa into Wuse II. Even though it is the same route every morning, I find it exciting and fascinating every day. Starting from the market and the corner shops in my neighbourhood, the chicken and goats wandering around the streets, from the mama-puts and sellers on the street (rather on the highway) that sell anything from plastic toys to chewing gum, to Jabi lake, and the entry into the central area, where people get off the bus and take a taxi, which results in chaos every morning.
People dress very well. Anyone seems to put at least some effort into choosing what to wear. Apparently, clothing is used as a sign of well-being; only the very poor cannot afford to dress passably well. Also, I envy how dark skin just goes so well with bright and beautiful colours. Nigerians dress in the most beautiful colours, and many wear traditional clothing on an every day basis. I hardly see anyone wearing sunglasses, which I couldn't stand for long.
Something I noticed while talking about politics with people here (it always comes up when they ask me what I do and I tell them that I work for a German NGO), many do still wish for a military ruler, thus a dictatorship. The question of leadership is considered very important, many of the apparent problems are blamed on the lack of suitable leaders. While I agree that most Nigerian presidents have not exactly shown extraordinary leadership capabilities, I m afraid that the desire for a military ruler indicates the lack of democratic values, which in turn might also be a reason the Nigerian democracy can only be considered a farce. I don't want to go into too much detail here, this is just an observation, and not representative.
Another observation concerning a totally different topic is the following: apparently Cussons "morning fresh - best ever formula" dishwashing detergent has a strong monopoly on the Nigerian market for dishwashing detergent. Everywhere I have been to I have only seen this specific dishwashing detergent. Same for black tea and coffee. It's lipton's yellow label black tea and nescafe instant coffee respectively. I should consider finding a market niche and come up with my own monopoly. So much for my plans for this weekend.
People dress very well. Anyone seems to put at least some effort into choosing what to wear. Apparently, clothing is used as a sign of well-being; only the very poor cannot afford to dress passably well. Also, I envy how dark skin just goes so well with bright and beautiful colours. Nigerians dress in the most beautiful colours, and many wear traditional clothing on an every day basis. I hardly see anyone wearing sunglasses, which I couldn't stand for long.
Something I noticed while talking about politics with people here (it always comes up when they ask me what I do and I tell them that I work for a German NGO), many do still wish for a military ruler, thus a dictatorship. The question of leadership is considered very important, many of the apparent problems are blamed on the lack of suitable leaders. While I agree that most Nigerian presidents have not exactly shown extraordinary leadership capabilities, I m afraid that the desire for a military ruler indicates the lack of democratic values, which in turn might also be a reason the Nigerian democracy can only be considered a farce. I don't want to go into too much detail here, this is just an observation, and not representative.
Another observation concerning a totally different topic is the following: apparently Cussons "morning fresh - best ever formula" dishwashing detergent has a strong monopoly on the Nigerian market for dishwashing detergent. Everywhere I have been to I have only seen this specific dishwashing detergent. Same for black tea and coffee. It's lipton's yellow label black tea and nescafe instant coffee respectively. I should consider finding a market niche and come up with my own monopoly. So much for my plans for this weekend.
Mittwoch, 16. September 2009
I luv u witout knwinn hw, or wen, or 4rm where...
Nigerian men consider themselves very romantic. I have heard this statement at least ten times now. Romantic, ah well. There seems to be a very distinct concept of romantic that is particularly Nigerian. It doesn't have anything to do with the Western perception of romantic, meaning candle-light dinners, long walks and deep conversations, holding hands watching the sunset (sorry for being so cliché); Nigerian romance is totally different. It might mean that your date takes you out to watch a football match at some random place, where you sit on plastic chairs and have a beer, while he is talking to his friends about the game. It might mean that a guy makes you wait several hours before he comes to pick you up for your first date, giving you random excuses for why he will be late, while he calls you every 20 minutes to tell you that "I m on my way", "I m very close now", "I ll be there in a few".
But the most romantic part is when they tell you that they love you, right away. When they say that they wouldn't mind getting married to you right now. When they send you text messages like "you have made me happy, decorated my heart wit sweet emotions n my face wit lovely smiles" when you know each other for one whole day. When they keep on explaining how much you mean to them and how they will do "just anything" for you, after you have spent 2 hours together, when they say they will "chop bullet" for you, or when they refer to you as "their wife" in front of their friends during your first date.
Certainly, they are not afraid of big words. But I m starting to be afraid of them. At least when they start being "romantic". There doesn't seem to be a process of getting to know each other, spending time together to find out what the other person is all about. It's love, right away, no more questions asked, no more details needed. In a sense, it actually is very romantic.
But the most romantic part is when they tell you that they love you, right away. When they say that they wouldn't mind getting married to you right now. When they send you text messages like "you have made me happy, decorated my heart wit sweet emotions n my face wit lovely smiles" when you know each other for one whole day. When they keep on explaining how much you mean to them and how they will do "just anything" for you, after you have spent 2 hours together, when they say they will "chop bullet" for you, or when they refer to you as "their wife" in front of their friends during your first date.
Certainly, they are not afraid of big words. But I m starting to be afraid of them. At least when they start being "romantic". There doesn't seem to be a process of getting to know each other, spending time together to find out what the other person is all about. It's love, right away, no more questions asked, no more details needed. In a sense, it actually is very romantic.
Dienstag, 15. September 2009
Na mi get road but e come shunt me
Traffic go kill me - it's probably the most dangerous thing I have been involved in ever since I got here (Apart from the football game I'd say). I talked with my taxi driver about it this morning, he asked me about the way we drive in Germany, and all I could say was: "Well, it's different. There are rules and stuff." I m guessing that there are actually rules here, but I can't quite figure out what exactly the rules are. I m still trying to figure out the signs the policeman makes at the crossroads. The impressive thing about Abuja are its extremely well-built and new roads, highways, and expressways (thanks to Julius Berger, which is a German company no one in Germany ever heard of, but they are such a big deal here), so people really speed. Also traffic lights are in place. Those aren't working though, so during peak times, policemen regulate the traffic at the crossroads in a very confusing manner. I am actually thinking about taking driving lessons - there is a "Unity and Peace Driving School" close to my home. Maybe I will learn what the random waving and pointing is supposed to indicate. Surprisingly, there are less accidents than I would have expected (I see at least one every day, but that's little, considering the way people drive).
The picture shows the inside of the car that brought me back from work yesterday.
The picture shows the inside of the car that brought me back from work yesterday.
This morning when I got off the cab to get to work some huge, brand new car stopped next to me and some guy was trying to hand me his card. I didn't take it from him, because I wasn't sure what exactly he wanted from me. Turns out he just "admired me" and wanted me to call him. When I didn't react right away he jumped out of his car (tall guy in a very formal suit) and in the middle of a quite busy street he yells: "Madame (Every lady here is a "Madame"), please call me! I admire you! Promise to call!" Which was not only a really funny situation, but attracted the attention of my office's security personnel, as well as my taxi driver's concern; he would not leave until I had entered the office building. I find it cute, how any male person you meet, whether it's your friend's friend, the guy you buy your credit from, or just the guy who gets you to work in the morning seems to feel responsible for you and gets very jealous when he catches you talking to another male person.
Yesterday I went shopping. The store close to my office is called "Assorted Supermarket" - well, it really is not very assorted. I now know how people in the former GDR must have felt. Most shelves are half-empty, they have mostly only one or two items of any product. I was the only customer in the shop, surrounded by at least 6 employees. I am not sure, whether this "Assorted Supermarket" is a very profitable business.
Another lesson I learned yesterday: any lady that could technically be your mum, but isn't your mum is your auntie, so you call them aunty, which is very funny to me. It is considered more formal than using their first name. Your dad (baba, at least in Yoruba), uncle, and your dad's/uncle's friends, as well as your older male cousins basically only have one function: to give you money whenever they meet you. It's expected, and if they don't they are considered uncaring and stingy, which is a real insult to any Nigerian man, as they are generally very generous.
I have had Nigerian beer for the first time. Mind you, I m German, so beer is kinda a big deal and considered part of our culture ("Lieber Frau und Kind erschießen, als einen Tropfen Bier vergießen"). I have to say that "Star" (that's the brand I tried) isn't all that bad. But it gives you a headache the next day, even if you've only had a few cans (I m missing the Reinheitsgebot).
Something remarkable about the way of living in Abuja that I have discovered recently: there is a pretty clear distinction between Nigerians and Expats. There are certain places where I feel like I m in Europe, mostly white people, only the employees seem to be Nigerian. Expats have their own little communities. There is a large community of Lebanese people - they have their own restaurants and businesses. I m still not sure, why exactly Lebanese.. And then there are other places, like the area I live in, where people seem to never encounter any white people, thus they stare at you like you re an alien. So far, I haven't encountered many places in which there is a mean between the two extremes.
Apparently, I still blow oyinbo most of the time, so I m trying to adjust. But bodi dey inside cloth.
Montag, 14. September 2009
a life of contrasts
I stay in a very simple apartment, no water, no generator, no luxuries. We live next to a market and a variety of corner shops, the ground is covered in huge piles of trash. Goats, sheep, and chicken run on the streets, children play football barefoot everywhere. Women carry water buckets on their head through the neighbourhood.
The other day, a friend took us out in his brand new car. Air-conditioned, impressive sound system, leather interiors. We went to a place called "Clubhouse", had Shisha, fancy drinks, were seated next to a pool. His friends joined us, and later we all went to a club called "Play", where we had more fancy drinks and a great time.
I wake up in the morning and the first thing I do is getting water from outside to take a shower. I hope that the power might turn on, so I can blow-dry my hair or iron something to wear to work. I have breakfast sitting on the floor, because there's no such thing as a dining table. When I leave the house to get to work I have a few words with the neighbours on how the weather looks like and that fruits are so expensive during Ramadan.
Yesterday, I visited my colleagues in Maitama, to watch a debate on German TV. They have satellite TV. They also have a pool right outside, air-conditioning, a fully well-equipped kitchen, marble floor in the living room, and 24hrs. electricity, not to mention the security guard, who opens the gate only for invited guests. We ate lasagne and had German liquor while watching.
On my way back to my place the taxi driver bought roasted peanuts on the street from a guy selling them from a plastic bucket he was carrying on his head for maybe 200 Naira. Next to him, another guy was holding two whole chicken to sell.
It's a life of contrasts.
The other day, a friend took us out in his brand new car. Air-conditioned, impressive sound system, leather interiors. We went to a place called "Clubhouse", had Shisha, fancy drinks, were seated next to a pool. His friends joined us, and later we all went to a club called "Play", where we had more fancy drinks and a great time.
I wake up in the morning and the first thing I do is getting water from outside to take a shower. I hope that the power might turn on, so I can blow-dry my hair or iron something to wear to work. I have breakfast sitting on the floor, because there's no such thing as a dining table. When I leave the house to get to work I have a few words with the neighbours on how the weather looks like and that fruits are so expensive during Ramadan.
Yesterday, I visited my colleagues in Maitama, to watch a debate on German TV. They have satellite TV. They also have a pool right outside, air-conditioning, a fully well-equipped kitchen, marble floor in the living room, and 24hrs. electricity, not to mention the security guard, who opens the gate only for invited guests. We ate lasagne and had German liquor while watching.
On my way back to my place the taxi driver bought roasted peanuts on the street from a guy selling them from a plastic bucket he was carrying on his head for maybe 200 Naira. Next to him, another guy was holding two whole chicken to sell.
It's a life of contrasts.
and the adventure is on...
following several requests for more detailed information on my new life, I have decided to open a blog to keep anyone interested updated on a more or less regular basis.
I don't even know where to start. I have spent 13 days in this country, and each day has been exciting and new and full of discoveries. I am doing a 3-months internship with the Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung in Abuja, Nigeria and it's my first time outside Europe. So much for the basics.
First thing I noticed: it's damn hot here, like really hot. And moist. I felt like running against a wall when I stepped out of the airport. Abuja International Airport, probably the tiniest and most basic "international" airport I have ever seen. On our way to the apartment, I made my first encounter with the speed bumps - a very annoying and useless tool to slow down the traffic. Oh Lord, the traffic.. I m not exactly sure how to describe it. There seems to be one rule: honking helps. No matter what's happening. Other rules include: drive as fast as you can whereever you can (meaning: when there are no speedbumps, roadblocks, or random police controls), overtake from anywhere as much as possible, ignore any traffic or warning signs, and turn in the middle of the street whenever necessary. Me and my friends, who came to pick me up, got pulled over by the police - actually for no reason apart from the fact that the officer wanted to have a look at me, an Oyinbo, in a car with four black people. So much for the abuse of police power. They let us go though, and we didn't even need to dash them. So much for a warm welcome.
So far, the most exciting activities I have engaged in was 1. Church, 2. Football, live at the Stadium. Nigeria vs. Tunisia (actually, the most exciting part was getting into the Stadium itself) and 3. Going to Wuse Market on a Saturday morning.
1. I wish I could describe what Church is like here, but there's just no way of explaining when you have never experienced it yourself. It is crazy, and loud (very loud), and overwhelming. It's a lot of shouting, a lot of extremely loud music, and a lot of frenzy. It can't be adequately described, but one thing is for sure: it's nothing like service in Europe. At all. People like going to church, and they give money to their church, even if they don't have any. The church we went to is called "House on the Rock" - it's actually still under construction, because it has just been renovated recently, but yet there's daily service. The church is celebrating it's 10 year-anniversary, thus there are special events taking place every day.
2. Football is a big deal in Nigeria. A huge deal. And the game Nigeria vs. Tunisia was an important one, determining Nigeria's chances of qualifying for the World Cup 2010. Even though Nigeria is not totally out yet, the draw against Tunisia (2:2) put them in a difficult position. As far as the game itself is concerned, not much can be said. It wasn't a great game. A lot more can be said about what that day taught me about Nigeria: firstly, we did not have tickets for the game, but one phone call later, we were all set and ready to go. (Lesson 1: you can get in anywhere or get anything if you just know the right people). Secondly, there did not seem to be a coherent plan of how to get people to and into the stadium. Only one gate was open, but there was no way of knowing where it was or how you could get to it. Thus, people decided to climb fences and bridges, trying to get in. We actually just dashed the police a few times to be allowed in, which resulted in a crowd of mad Nigerians following us, which then in turn resulted in the police deciding to beat people up to hold them back (Lesson 2: If you have money, you have all the possibilities in the world; Lesson 3: the police is always right, even if they decide to first stop people with electric poles, clubs, and warning shots, just to let everyone pass in the end). The stadium supposedly fits 80.000 people. For some reason, twice as many tickets had been sold. There was an incredible amount of people in the stadium - just try to imagine the soundscape when Nigeria scored (Lesson 4: there are rules and regulations for everything, but no one ever cares). I think, the game and everything that came with it was my first really authentic Nigerian experience (and I really do hope my mum never gets to read this, but just in case: I m sorry mummy, I was really trying to be careful and everything, but there was just no other way. I survived it, I m fine - I only got shocked but not hurt).
3. Wuse Market. Well, a market is a market in Europe, it's definitely something else in Nigeria. You can buy everything at the market, literally everything, you can also get your toenails painted or your hair done. It's an amazingly busy and intimidating place, but at the same time it is amazingly impressive and stunning. My German colleague and I went to Wuse market on a Saturday morning, having a couple of things in mind we wanted to buy. While I was waiting for her for about 20 minutes, I was not only offered to buy bread, recharge cards, plastic bags, tissues, a blender, a clock, plastic chairs, flipflops, and motor oil, I was also asked to marry someone right away. Our tour over the market was exhausting but succesful. If you keep on saying "no, thank you." "Just looking", "no, I m not interested", you might make it through. As a white person you will hear "Oyinbo pepe" like a billion times. Also, sellers will give you ridiculous prices, approximately five times the actual price. You need to stay tough and bargain hard.
So far, I love it here. The people are amazing, I have found really cool friends, and I m happy I had the chance to come here. Even though I sometimes miss taking a hot shower (especially Monday mornings) I have gotten used to so many things so quickly: the most important question you ask yourself when coming home: "will there be lights in the house?" (and usually there aren't). When you're an oyinbo people assume you're daft. They try to rip you off whereever you go, so you better know the prices. Apart from that, my biggest problem is that I am genuinely too nice. People don't take a "no" for a no (especially guys), if you fail to be very serious and categorical.
I don't even know where to start. I have spent 13 days in this country, and each day has been exciting and new and full of discoveries. I am doing a 3-months internship with the Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung in Abuja, Nigeria and it's my first time outside Europe. So much for the basics.
First thing I noticed: it's damn hot here, like really hot. And moist. I felt like running against a wall when I stepped out of the airport. Abuja International Airport, probably the tiniest and most basic "international" airport I have ever seen. On our way to the apartment, I made my first encounter with the speed bumps - a very annoying and useless tool to slow down the traffic. Oh Lord, the traffic.. I m not exactly sure how to describe it. There seems to be one rule: honking helps. No matter what's happening. Other rules include: drive as fast as you can whereever you can (meaning: when there are no speedbumps, roadblocks, or random police controls), overtake from anywhere as much as possible, ignore any traffic or warning signs, and turn in the middle of the street whenever necessary. Me and my friends, who came to pick me up, got pulled over by the police - actually for no reason apart from the fact that the officer wanted to have a look at me, an Oyinbo, in a car with four black people. So much for the abuse of police power. They let us go though, and we didn't even need to dash them. So much for a warm welcome.
So far, the most exciting activities I have engaged in was 1. Church, 2. Football, live at the Stadium. Nigeria vs. Tunisia (actually, the most exciting part was getting into the Stadium itself) and 3. Going to Wuse Market on a Saturday morning.
1. I wish I could describe what Church is like here, but there's just no way of explaining when you have never experienced it yourself. It is crazy, and loud (very loud), and overwhelming. It's a lot of shouting, a lot of extremely loud music, and a lot of frenzy. It can't be adequately described, but one thing is for sure: it's nothing like service in Europe. At all. People like going to church, and they give money to their church, even if they don't have any. The church we went to is called "House on the Rock" - it's actually still under construction, because it has just been renovated recently, but yet there's daily service. The church is celebrating it's 10 year-anniversary, thus there are special events taking place every day.
2. Football is a big deal in Nigeria. A huge deal. And the game Nigeria vs. Tunisia was an important one, determining Nigeria's chances of qualifying for the World Cup 2010. Even though Nigeria is not totally out yet, the draw against Tunisia (2:2) put them in a difficult position. As far as the game itself is concerned, not much can be said. It wasn't a great game. A lot more can be said about what that day taught me about Nigeria: firstly, we did not have tickets for the game, but one phone call later, we were all set and ready to go. (Lesson 1: you can get in anywhere or get anything if you just know the right people). Secondly, there did not seem to be a coherent plan of how to get people to and into the stadium. Only one gate was open, but there was no way of knowing where it was or how you could get to it. Thus, people decided to climb fences and bridges, trying to get in. We actually just dashed the police a few times to be allowed in, which resulted in a crowd of mad Nigerians following us, which then in turn resulted in the police deciding to beat people up to hold them back (Lesson 2: If you have money, you have all the possibilities in the world; Lesson 3: the police is always right, even if they decide to first stop people with electric poles, clubs, and warning shots, just to let everyone pass in the end). The stadium supposedly fits 80.000 people. For some reason, twice as many tickets had been sold. There was an incredible amount of people in the stadium - just try to imagine the soundscape when Nigeria scored (Lesson 4: there are rules and regulations for everything, but no one ever cares). I think, the game and everything that came with it was my first really authentic Nigerian experience (and I really do hope my mum never gets to read this, but just in case: I m sorry mummy, I was really trying to be careful and everything, but there was just no other way. I survived it, I m fine - I only got shocked but not hurt).
3. Wuse Market. Well, a market is a market in Europe, it's definitely something else in Nigeria. You can buy everything at the market, literally everything, you can also get your toenails painted or your hair done. It's an amazingly busy and intimidating place, but at the same time it is amazingly impressive and stunning. My German colleague and I went to Wuse market on a Saturday morning, having a couple of things in mind we wanted to buy. While I was waiting for her for about 20 minutes, I was not only offered to buy bread, recharge cards, plastic bags, tissues, a blender, a clock, plastic chairs, flipflops, and motor oil, I was also asked to marry someone right away. Our tour over the market was exhausting but succesful. If you keep on saying "no, thank you." "Just looking", "no, I m not interested", you might make it through. As a white person you will hear "Oyinbo pepe" like a billion times. Also, sellers will give you ridiculous prices, approximately five times the actual price. You need to stay tough and bargain hard.
So far, I love it here. The people are amazing, I have found really cool friends, and I m happy I had the chance to come here. Even though I sometimes miss taking a hot shower (especially Monday mornings) I have gotten used to so many things so quickly: the most important question you ask yourself when coming home: "will there be lights in the house?" (and usually there aren't). When you're an oyinbo people assume you're daft. They try to rip you off whereever you go, so you better know the prices. Apart from that, my biggest problem is that I am genuinely too nice. People don't take a "no" for a no (especially guys), if you fail to be very serious and categorical.
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